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Ney Springs

Snakes, Wasps, Poison Oak! but damn there some classic routes. Ney Springs was my first climbing experience in the Shasta area, which is pretty unusual do to the secretive nature of the locals. However I was lucky enough to hook up with a local, Todd, who was eager to take me there. We rapped in from above so I got a good preview. Could it be true splitter cracks in the sun. It was true, it was December and it was perfect temperature for climbing. Ney Springs is an oasis for a climber in a desert of snow. If the sun shines only a bit it will be a great day at Ney. And if you get passed the harshness of Neys flora and fawna, the climbing is great. there are only a couple of dozen routes at Ney but they are all worth doing. A few may require a little more caution due to some loose rock. The climbing is moderately difficult with climbs range from 5.9- 5.12c. Most require some gear. It's good to have a full rack and some extra long slings. A helmet is probably wise as well. Be prepared for steep climbing and technichal gear placements. Ney is best fall through spring. In the summer the rattle snakes take over, literally, I've seen as many as five in one day, which signified the end of the season. Wasps are abundant, though they are not aggressive. I've climbed cracks withhundreds of wasps only several inches from my fingers but they were not bothered at all. I like to tap on pockets before I stick my fingers in just to make sure I don't surprise one. Poison oak, it's all over but if you stick to the trail it's avoidable, I'm fairly sensitive and I've only managed to pick it up once at Ney. All that said, If your one of the few lucky enough to find this little jem, enjoy and tread lightly.

Ney Springs Beta
The preferred approach to Ney Springs is to take Lake St west from Mt Shasta, after going over Box Canyon Bridge turn left on Castle Lake Road. The road will curve around to the right and Ney Springs Rd(a dirt road) will be straight ahead. Drive straight down this road for about 2 miles, The road will eventually narrow and there will be a spring(Ney Spring) on the right side of the road park here. Walk up the road then right up a ramp/old road, as the ramp flattens, look for a climbers trail marker on the left. 10 minutes up to the wall, climbs 1-6 will be to the right, and the rest to the left. All climbs listed have chain anchors.

< Printable Ney Springs Mini Guide >

  1. Byron Slab 12?
  2. **Snake Charmer 11+ 6 bolts
  3. ***Naughty Neighbor 12c 5 bolts(can start on Snake Charmer)
  4. *****Blister Rust 11b 4 bolts, gear to 2"
  5. ***Black Card 10d 3 bolts, gear to 4"
  6. ***Go Lightly 9 6 bolts
  7. ****Tuscanellis 9 3 bolts, gear to 1"
  8. *unknown 10c 2 bolts, then climb Tuscanellis gear to 1"
  9. ****Naysayer 11a 4 bolts, gear to 1"
  10. *****Stinkwater 10b 1 bolt, gear to 3"
  11. *****Wendy's Cafe 10b gear to 4"
  12. *****Clean Slate 10c 2 bolts, gear to 2"
  1. ***Shop Night 10d 1 fixed pin, gear to 2" long slings
  2. ***Squawfish 10a gear to 1"
  3. *****Route Rustler(aka The Red Wall) 6 bolts, gear to 1"
  4. ***Rattler Buttress 10a 6 bolts
  5. *****Comrades !2b 6 bolts
  6. ****Stiller's Garage 10b gear to 3"
  7. ****unknown 11b 3 bolts, gear to 1/2"
  8. **Anti Bungee Crack 9 gear to 4"
  9. **unknown 8/9 gear to 3"(tree anchor)

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